I miss surfing. I miss the sun on the water. I miss that rush when I get into the water, the frigid cold. Then 4-5 minutes later all that warmth of the wetsuit doing it’s job. Watching the waves come in. Getting a sense of the timing o the waves. Out with the guys, at the lineup, battling for the waves, getting the waves, cheering and soaking it all in.Away from everything. Work, worry, money, problems, just the board and the ocean and the sun, and absolutely nothing bothering me. I miss that. I miss that singular moment, when life is totally worth all the crap that gets in the way of joy. All those singular moments that come and go but seem to come automatically out on the ocean. 3 weeks until Cancun and the unavoidable moment. Can’t wait.
